Caring for Bearded Dragons

Bearded Dragons, Babies, Young Animals

Bearded dragons are getting to be popular pets, and it is not tough to see why. Babies are really cute, and the adults so calm and placid that even people who say they would not have a reptile at the home tend to be swayed to change their mind once they have have an chance to get up close to them.
Many are purchased as pets as an impulse purchase – infants are being sold very cheaply today and are easily accessible, and even though some people do read up and prepare for their new pet, there are still a huge number who take one on with little if any advice in any way. Regrettably many staff in pet stores and reptile centers are ignorant regarding the appropriate housing and feeding arrangements resulting in bearded dragons which have a unhealthy and frequently short life.
If you’re tempted to purchase a baby bearded dragon here’s some advice that will help you to raise a bearded dragon correctly.
Although you might be taking a look at a baby that’s just 5 to 6 inches in length, by the time it is twelve months old it’ll be between 18 and 22 inches long and will weigh around 700 grams. Adults require a vivarium that is 4ft x 2ft x 2ft in size, and will most likely need this by the time they are eight to ten months old. It is therefore a false economy to purchase a smaller vivarium with the intention to update as it grows larger, and it is ideal to purchase the larger size . Too many live in vivariums in which they can’t turn round properly without slamming their nose on the glass and tail onto the background.
Regardless of the fantasy baby bearded dragons don’t feel lost in a large vivarium – after all, in the desert no one gives them a pencil for the first couple of weeks!
To increase at the speed they do means they have big appetites and have to be fed lots and frequently as infants. They aren’t cheap pets to maintain – a bearded dragon can cost up to a little cat or dog to feed every week.
Coming from the hot arid desert of Australia that they have to get a temperature range within their vivarium that mimics their natural surroundings. Establishing a miniature desert in your house is a part of the fun of maintaining them. Being cold blooded creatures they thermoregulate – that is, when too hot they need to be able to move to a cooler place, and if too cold should be able to proceed to get warm. The vivarium ought to have a basking spot beneath a heat lamp that reaches a temperature of 105 degrees Fahrenheit, and the other end’the trendy end’ of the vivarium should be no longer than 85 degrees. At night they ought to be able to experience a fantastic temperature fall, so the heating should be turned off as long as the ambient temperature doesn’t fall below 65 degrees for infants, and 60 degrees for adults. Temperatures should be kept at the right levels using a thermostat.
Heat ought to be supplied by means of a heat lamp – bearded dragons don’t absorb heat from below, and really, can’t feel it. Heat stones and heat mats can easily burn them so shouldn’t be used. Bearded dragons want Exposure to UVB
In the desert they bask beneath the powerful rays of sunlight which offers UVB and assists them synthesize vitamin D3. This is vital since it means they can use calcium that’s crucial to aid their development. The shortage of UVB will cause Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes deformities of the limbs, and which can only be treated if caught early, and can be deadly. Their UVB requirements are the greatest of reptiles kept in captivity. A fluorescent tube running the length of the vivarium ensures that they are exposed to UVB for the entire period that the light in on. The top tubes to use are the Reptisun 10% or Arcadia 12%.
If they’re exposed to UVB for 12 hours at the vivarium they get adequate UVB, but even this is just equal to approximately 20 minutes under the complete Australian sun. For this reason hides shouldn’t be supplied for bearded dragons as hiding away will reduce their vulnerability to the valuable UVB rays. Substrate
Babies aren’t accurate feeders and often pick up loose substrate with mouthfuls of food. Kitchen towel is the ideal substrate for infants as it carries no risk. Don’t use sand until the infant is six months old, and NEVER use woodchip. This is to avoid impaction in the stomach that’s usually fatal. Establish the Vivarium Before Purchasing a Bearded Dragon
When you’ve your vivarium you’ll get the temperatures will fluctuate initially, and you’ll need time to fool around with the position of the probe to the thermostat until you get the right temperature range.
Most infants will travel very comfortably in a tiny dark box. There’s absolutely not any need for extra heating unless the weather is quite cold.
Once you first bring your new baby home you might find it eats the first bunch of crickets you put in the vivarium, and then won’t eat. Many new owners worry about it, but it is only a response to the stress of moving. It takes up to a fortnight to get a baby to settle into a regular eating pattern.
To help it settle in it’s ideal to resist that impulse to take it out and manage it. Give it two weeks to settle until you pick this up. You can begin getting it used to you by placing your hand in the vivarium when cleaning or feeding it out.
When it’s time to begin tackling, pick it up by slipping your hand under it and scooping it up. In the wild their most important predators are birds, so anything coming at them above scares them. These are stress lines, but do not over worry about them. Many things cause momentary stress to a baby, and many are nothing to be worried about. It might be a dark colored coat they suddenly see from the corner of the eye. It takes about an hour for them to heat up and begin moving around which is just as it would be in the desert. Just ensure to let them time to wake up before offering food.
Infants up to age 12 weeks will need to be fed 3 times a day with little sized crickets (first or second instar). Each feed needs to be as numerous as they could eat in 10 minutes. 1 feed every day ought to be dusted with calcium to prevent MBD. Finely chopped vegetables or fruit should remain available. When mature your beardie will be 80% vegetarian, so he wants to get used to eating veggies early.
The ideal livefood is crickets because of the amount they consume. It is possible to feed locusts, but this will work out a lot more expensive, and as soon as they’ve eaten locusts some don’t take to eating crickets against since they’re more bitter. Do not feed a basic diet of meal worms because their skins are high in chitin which bearded dragons can’t digest very well. Meal worms and wax worms can be provided as an occasional treat.
Most bearded dragons don’t eat frozen or dried food, so you’ll need to get accustomed to feeding livefood. Join a Forum
Baby bearded dragons appear to relish perplexing and stressing their new owners. Combine a bearded dragon or reptile forum so you can request advice from those who’ve had the very same worries as you and will be able to offer you guidance and reassurance.
Raising a reptile which develops so quickly is a terrific experience, and if you guarantee their surroundings and feeding regime is appropriate you are going to have a pet that will live a healthier live in excess of a decade. The first few weeks and months are a vital phase in raising a baby bearded dragon – they aren’t tricky to keep just so long as you take care to understand what they should grow and develop correctly.

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